Modulation instability of Stokes wave → freak wave

被引:0
|
作者
A. I. Dyachenko
V. E. Zakharov
机构
[1] Russian Academy of Sciences,Landau Institute for Theoretical Physics
[2] University of Arizona,Department of Mathematics
关键词
02.60.Cb; 47.15.Hg; 92.10.−c;
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学科分类号
摘要
Formation of waves of large amplitude (freak waves, killer waves) at the surface of the ocean is studied numerically. We have observed that freak waves have the same ratio of the wave height to the wave length as limiting Stokes waves. When a freak wave reaches this limiting state, it breaks. The physical mechanism of freak wave formation is discussed.
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页码:255 / 259
页数:4
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