New combination of ultraviolet absorbers in an oily emollient increases sunscreen efficacy and photostability

被引:10
作者
Florence L’Alloret
Didier Candau
Sophie Seité
Marie-Jocelyne Pygmalion
Laetitia Ruiz
Martin Josso
Hélène Meaudre
Lydie Gauchet
Ana-Maria Pena
Anne Colonna
机构
[1] L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Chevilly Larue
[2] La Roche-Posay Pharmaceutical Laboratories, 92600 Asnières
[3] L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Aulnay sous-bois
关键词
Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; Photoprotection factors; Photostability; Sun protection factor; Sunscreen; UV absorbers; UV filters; UV protection;
D O I
10.1007/s13555-012-0004-8
中图分类号
学科分类号
摘要
Introduction: It is now recognized that to adequately protect skin from sun damage, sunscreens require a photostable combination of ultraviolet (UV) filters with a suitable level of UVA protection. The total amount of UV filters should be as low as possible to avoid adverse skin reactions, potential environmental impact, and to ensure acceptable texture for better application and usage. Methods: A synergistic combination of UV filters was selected to obtain a high sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF). An oily vehicle was then added to the formula to improve the solubility and the photostability of the lipophilic UV filters. Results: The combination of filters, i.e., terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazin (BEMT), and butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane (BMDM), obtained an elevated SPF as well as ahighUVA-PF. Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (ILS), a derivative of anatural amino acid (sarcosine, also known as N-methylglycine) was introduced in this formulation in order to dissolve the oil-soluble UV absorbers and to photostabilize BMDM. The new sunscreen formulation obtained with this combination is photostable and contains a reduced amount of UV filters compared to other sunscreens with the same level of efficacy. Conclusion: This report described the steps resulting in the formulation of a new combination of UV filters in an oily emollient, which presents a high UVA-PF (UVA-PF = 38) and a SPF 50?, is photostable, and offers good protection against UV-induced biological damage. © The Author(s) 2012.
引用
收藏
页码:1 / 10
页数:9
相关论文
共 17 条
[1]  
Lim H.W., Cooper K., The health impact of solar radiation and prevention strategies: Report of the environment council, American Academy of Dermatology, J Am Acad Dermatol, 4, pp. 81-99, (1999)
[2]  
Bech-Thomsen N., Wulf H.C., Sunbathers application of sunscreen is probably inadequate to obtain the sun protection factor assigned to the preparation, Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed, 9, pp. 242-244, (1993)
[3]  
Wright M.F., Wright S.T., Wagner R.F., Mechanisms of sunscreen failure, J Am Acad Dermatol, 44, pp. 781-784, (2001)
[4]  
Naylor M., Farmer K.C., The case for sunscreens: A review of their use in preventing actinic damage and neoplasia, Arch Dermatol, 133, pp. 1146-1154, (1997)
[5]  
Schauder S., Ippen H., Contact and photocontact sensitivity to sunscreens: Review of a 15-year experience and of the literature, Contact Dermatitis, 37, pp. 221-232, (1997)
[6]  
Darvay A., White I.R., Rycroft J.L., Jones A.B., Hawk J.L., McFadden J.P., Photoallergic contact dermatitis is uncommon, Br J Dermatol, 145, pp. 597-601, (2001)
[7]  
Fourtanier A., Bernerd F., Bouillon C., Marot L., Moyal D., Seite S., Protection of skin biological targets by different types of sunscreens, Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed, 22, pp. 22-32, (2006)
[8]  
(2012)
[9]  
Forestier S., Rationale for sunscreen development, J Am Acad Dermatol, 58, SUPPL. 2, (2008)
[10]  
Deflandre A., Lang G., Photostability assessment of sunscreens: Benzylidene camphor and dibenzoylmethane derivatives, Int J Cosmet Sci, 10, pp. 53-62, (1988)