Safety Evaluation and Anti-wrinkle Effects of Retinoids on Skin

Retinoids have many beneficial effects on dermatological applications. But, retinoids cause skin irritation. In this study, the safety of retinoids was clarified via both primary skin irritation test in rabbits and sensitization study using an integrated model for the differentiation of chemical-induced allergic and irritant skin reaction (IMDS), an alternative method to sensitization test. The effects of retinoids on the change of ultraviolet A (UVA)-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in human skin fibroblasts and the modulation of type-1 pN collagen synthesis in hairless mice were examined to clarify the anti-wrinkle effects. All-trans retinol (t-ROL) and its derivative, all-trans retinoic acid (t-RA), showed mild skin irritation but did not induce the sensitization. t-ROL and t-RA exerted anti-wrinkle effects by inhibiting the UVA-induced MMP-1 in human skin fibroblasts and increasing the type-1 pN collagen synthesis in hairless mice. These findings suggest that retinoids do not induce the allergy, and show anti-wrinkle effects by decreasing MMP-1 activation and increasing collagen synthesis.