Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

被引：82
作者：
Ferreira, Marta Salvador [1 ,2 ]
Magalhaes, Maria Catarina [1 ]
Oliveira, Rita [3 ]
Sousa-Lobo, Jose Manuel [1 ,2 ]
Almeida, Isabel Filipa [1 ,2 ]
机构：
[1] Univ Porto, Fac Pharm, Dept Drug Sci, Lab Pharmaceut Technol, Rua Jorge de Viterbo Ferreira 228, P-4050313 Porto, Portugal
[2] Univ Porto, Fac Pharm, Dept Drug Sci, Lab Pharmaceut Technol,UCIBIO REQUIMTE,MedTech, Rua Jorge de Viterbo Ferreira 228, P-4050313 Porto, Portugal
[3] Univ Fernando Pessoa, Fac Hlth Sci, Biomed Res Ctr CEBIMED, Res Ctr,Fernando Pessoa Energy Environm & Hlth Re, P-4249004 Porto, Portugal
来源：
MOLECULES | 2021年 / 26卷 / 12期
关键词：
botanical; preparations; anti-aging; cosmetics; market; ULTRASOUND-ASSISTED EXTRACTION; VITIS-VINIFERA; ANTIOXIDANT CAPACITY; TOPICAL APPLICATION; BIOACTIVE COMPOUNDS; HUMAN SKIN; IN-VITRO; GRAPE; DERIVATIVES; HYDROQUINONE;
D O I：
10.3390/molecules26123584
中图分类号：
Q5 [生物化学]; Q7 [分子生物学];
学科分类号：
071010 ; 081704 ;
摘要：
Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.
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页数：18
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