Steepness and spectrum of a nonlinearly deformed wave on shallow waters

被引:23
作者
Didenkulova, I. I. [1 ]
Zahibo, N.
Kurkin, A. A.
Pelinovsky, E. N.
机构
[1] Nizhnii Novgorod State Tech Univ, Ul Minina 24, Nizhnii Novgorod 603600, Russia
[2] Russian Acad Sci, Inst Appl Phys, Nizhnii Novgorod 603950, Russia
[3] Univ Antilles, F-97159 Pointe A Pitre, Guadeloupe, France
基金
俄罗斯基础研究基金会;
关键词
Oceanic Physic; Wave Breaking; Sinusoidal Wave; Nonlinear Deformation; Harmonic Amplitude;
D O I
10.1134/S0001433806060119
中图分类号
P4 [大气科学(气象学)];
学科分类号
0706 ; 070601 ;
摘要
The process of nonlinear deformation of a surface wave on shallow waters is investigated. The main attention is given to the relationship between the wave Fourier spectrum and the steepness of wave front slope. It is shown that an unambiguous relationship couples these quantities in the case of an initially sinusoidal wave, which allows estimation of the spectral composition of the wave field from the observed wave steepness.
引用
收藏
页码:773 / 776
页数:4
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