Numerical modelling of alongshore variability in waves and wave-driven currents during the morphodynamic change of a laboratory beach

A non-hydrostatic phase-resolving numerical model (SWASH) is used to investigate the wave-driven nearshore hydrodynamics corresponding to new observations from a three-dimensional physical model in a wave basin. In the physical model, waves from a passing storm are simulated by varying the energy and duration of waves generated by a paddle over time and the beach morphology is surveyed in high spatial-resolution using a 3D laser scanner after each segment of the storm. An oblique incident wave angle introduces spatially variability in wave energy along the beach and results in morphologic differences during the storm, with active transport of beach sand by the wave-driven circulation. SWASH is validated using wave and current observations at each stage of the storm, indicating low root-mean-squared errors between model results and wave measurements, where the high-resolution model is able to predict wave shoaling, breaking and generation of the alongshore current. Model-data agreement is not as high for the velocity, suggesting spatial variability in bottom friction and horizontal mixing, and evolution of the bed in the physical model, could explain the differences. The detailed numerical model results indicate that the alongshore current is generated by wave breaking in the nearshore zone, and it increases in speed across a wider surf zone for increasing wave energy during the storm. This is associated with a bottom shear stress that exceeds the critical bed shear stress, with the potential to initiate motion and transport sediment in agreement with the experimental observations.