BIVARIATE DISTRIBUTIONS OF SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT WITH CHARACTERISTIC WAVE STEEPNESS AND CHARACTERISTIC SURF PARAMETER

The paper provides a bivariate distribution of significant wave height and characteristic wave steepness, as well as a bivariate distribution of significant wave height and characteristic surf parameter. The characteristic wave steepness in deep water is defined in terms of the significant wave height and the spectral peak period, and is relevant for e.g. the design of ships and marine structures. The characteristic surf parameter is given by the ratio between the slope of a beach or a structure and the square root of the characteristic wave steepness in deep water. The characteristic surf parameter is used to characterize surf zone processes and is relevant for e.g. wave run-up on beaches and coastal structures. The paper presents statistical properties of the wave parameters as well as examples of results typical for field conditions.