Energy-based optimal darted pattern for garment design

Purpose - The purpose of this paper is to find the pattern with minimal deformation energy while developing from 3D designed garments. Moreover, darts are generated to further reduce deformation energy. The aims of the energy-based flattening method are to reduce the difference between 3D designed garments and 2D flattened patterns in an accurate and efficient way. Design/methodology/approach - This study uses a mass spring method and iterative optimization to analyze pattern contours with minimal contour deformation while flattening three dimensional draping designs into a plane. Darts are generated to further reduce distortion during surface flattening and the energy method is introduced to verify that the analysis results obtained match the garment darts provided by the Bunka formula which is currently widely used in East Asia. Findings - An efficient method for generating optimal darted pattern is presented. It compares the important factors of darts, including position, length and amount. After iterative optimization and darts generation, the maximum energy reduction is about 30 percent. Originality/value - This study provides an aggregate to analyze and compare the differences between different patterns and conduct a verification comparison with traditional pattern formula.