Investigation of partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan, an amphoteric-amphiphilic chitosan derivative, as a new material for cosmetic and dermal application

Background Cationic amphiphilic chitosan derivatives can form polymeric micelles, which are useful cosmetic materials, but they form polyion complexes with anionic polymers, which can cause formulation difficulties. Aims This study aimed to evaluate the usefulness of partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan, an amphoteric-amphiphilic chitosan derivative, as a new material for cosmetics in the absence of a surfactant comprising an anionic polymer. Methods An anionic polymer and 1,2-decanediol (an antimicrobial agent)-containing partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan nanoemulsified lotion and glabridin (an antimelanogenic agent)-containing partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan polymeric micelle were prepared using a pressure homogenization method. The release of interleukin-1 alpha, cell viability, and melanogenesis inhibition was evaluated on a human skin model. Antimicrobial activity was evaluated using agar dilution method. Results A mixture of partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan and carboxyvinyl polymer did not form a polyion complex, but it formed a hydrophilic gel. The anionic polymer-containing partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan nanoemulsified formulation was stable, with no decrease in cell viability and horny layer exfoliation, which are typically observed with Tween 60. Compared with the formulation with methyl paraben (0.2%), the formulation to which 1,2-decanediol (0.05%) was added improved the antibacterial activity against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes; however, no interleukin-1 alpha upregulation was observed. The glabridin-containing partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan polymeric micelles enhanced melanogenesis inhibition and percutaneous glabridin delivery to the epidermis compared with conventional emulsified micelles. Conclusions These results suggest that partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan-forming polymeric micelles, in combination with 1,2-decanediol and glabridin, may be useful for surfactant-free cosmetic emulsions.