Recent advances in toxicological testing of the stratum corneum

alpha-Hydroxy acid (AHA) formulations are commonly used for skin chemical peelings. The primary target is the stratum corneum (SC). The aim of this study was to assess the effects of various glycolic acid concentrations and commercial phenolic acid formulations on the SC. Quantitative colorimetry of a corneoxenometry bioassay was used. The test procedure involved glycolic acid concentrations ranging from 3% to 70% in alcoholic solution. Exposure times were set for 1min and 3min. The bioassay showed consistent reactivity with a dose-effect relationship when using the selected low exposure times. In a similar procedure the aggressiveness of commercially available phenolic acid formulations was identified not using hazardous in vivo testing. Corneoxenometry appears useful for in vitro testing of AHA peeling agents during short exposure times. What's already known about this topic? Alpha hydroxyacids (AHA) are used for chemical peelings. AHA dosages used in clinical practice clearly depend on the chemical nature of the chemical compound. There is no safe clinical predictive test determining the safety of AHA concentrations and formulations. What does this study add? Corneoxenometry (CXM) is offered as an ex-vivo bioassay predicting interactions between AHA and the human stratum corneum. Other xenobiotics distinct from AHA and possibly altering corneocytes could be tested using CXM in non hazardous procedures.