On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs

被引：113

作者：

Massel, SR

Gourlay, MR

机构：

[1] Australian Inst Marine Sci, Townsville, Qld 4810, Australia

[2] Univ Queensland, Dept Civil Engn, Brisbane, Qld 4072, Australia

来源：

COASTAL ENGINEERING | 2000年 / 39卷 / 01期

关键词：

marine environment; coral reefs; mathematical methods; measurements; surface waves;

D O I：

10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00052-6

中图分类号：

TU [建筑科学];

学科分类号：

0813 ;

摘要：

An extended refraction-diffraction equation [Massel, S.R., 1993. Extended refraction-diffraction equation for surface waves. Coastal Eng. 19, 97-126] has been applied to predict wave transformation and breaking as well as wave-induced set-up on two-dimensional reef profiles of various shapes. A free empirical coefficient alpha in a formula for the average rate of energy dissipation [epsilon(b)] = (alpha rho g omega/8 pi)(root gh/C)(H-3/h) in the modified periodic bore model was found to be a function of the dimensionless parameter F-c0 = (g(1.25)H(0)(0.5)T(2.5))/h(r)(1.75), proposed by Gourlay [Gourlayl M.R., 1994. Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coastal Eng. 23, 17-42]. The applicability of the developed model has been demonstrated for reefs of various shapes subjected to various incident wave conditions. Assuming proposed relationships of the coefficient alpha and F-c0, the model provides results on wave height attenuation and set-up elevation which compare well with experimental data. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

引用

页码：1 / 27

页数：27

共 32 条

[1]

[Anonymous], P 22 COAST ENG C

[2]

BATTJES JA, 1979, P 16 COAST ENG C HAM, V1, P563

[3]

BERKHOFF JCW, 1973, P 13 COAST ENG C VAN, V1, P471

[4]

DALLY WR, 1985, J GEOPHYS RES, V90, P917