Calculation of the Sea Wave Run-Up on a Sloping Beach

被引:0
|
作者
Shermeneva, M. A. [1 ,2 ]
机构
[1] Russian Acad Sci, Prokhorov Gen Phys Inst, Ul Vavilova 38, Moscow 119991, Russia
[2] Natl Res Nucl Univ MEPhI, Moscow Engn Phys Inst, Kashirskoe Sh 31, Moscow 115409, Russia
关键词
NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ MODEL; SURFACE-WAVES;
D O I
10.3103/S1541308X17010125
中图分类号
O4 [物理学];
学科分类号
0702 ;
摘要
The motion of long surface waves above a sloping bottom has been calculated within the shallow-water approximation. It is shown that, if the linear solution is known, the nonlinear corrections, up to the eighth order, can be expressed in terms of the derivatives of the functions determining the linear solution. An analytical solution for the free-surface elevation in the near-shore area is constructed.
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页码:74 / 77
页数:4
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