Second-Order Time-Dependent Mild-Slope Equation for Wave Transformation

This study is to propose a wave model with both wave dispersivity and nonlinearity for the wave field without water depth restriction. A narrow-banded sea state centred around a certain dominant wave frequency is considered for applications in coastal engineering. A system of fully nonlinear governing equations is first derived by depth integration of the incompressible Navier-Stokes equation in conservative form. A set of second-order nonlinear time-dependent mild-slope equations is then developed by a perturbation scheme. The present nonlinear equations can be simplified to the linear time-dependent mild-slope equation, nonlinear long wave equation, and traditional Boussinesq wave equation, respectively. A finite volume method with the fourth-order Adams-Moulton predictor-corrector numerical scheme is adopted to directly compute the wave transformation. The validity of the present model is demonstrated by the simulation of the Stokes wave, cnoidal wave, and solitary wave on uniform depth, nonlinear wave shoaling on a sloping beach, and wave propagation over an elliptic shoal. The nearshore wave transformation across the surf zone is simulated for 1D wave on a uniform slope and on a composite bar profile and 2D wave field around a jetty. These computed wave height distributions show very good agreement with the experimental results available.