Boussinesq modelling of wave-induced horizontal particle velocities

被引：6
作者：
Bosboom, J [1 ]
Klopman, G [1 ]
Roelvink, JA [1 ]
Battjes, JA [1 ]
机构：
[1] DELFT UNIV TECHNOL, DEPT CIVIL ENGN, NETHERLANDS CTR COASTAL RES, NL-2600 GA DELFT, NETHERLANDS
来源：
COASTAL ENGINEERING | 1997年 / 32卷 / 2-3期
关键词：
Boussinesq models; particle velocities; wave kinematics; surf zone; wave breaking; coastal hydrodynamics;
D O I：
10.1016/S0378-3839(97)81748-6
中图分类号：
TU [建筑科学];
学科分类号：
0813 ;
摘要：
A frequency-domain Boussinesq model with good linear shoaling, improved linear dispersion characteristics and a dissipation formulation to account for wave breaking is extended to include the computation of the vertical structure of the horizontal velocity. The extended model is used to predict bottom velocities and resulting velocity variance and skewness in (partially) breaking irregular waves. The comparison of measured and computed velocity moments indicates that for moderately long waves the spectral Boussinesq model can be successfully used for sediment transport purposes. For shorter waves the crest velocity values of the higher waves are significantly underestimated, and as a result the velocity skewness as well. (C) 1997 Elsevier Science B.V.
引用
收藏
页码：163 / 180
页数：18
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