VIRTUAL RECONSTRUCTION OF HISTORICAL MEN'S SUIT

被引:23
作者
Kuzmichev, Victor [1 ]
Moskvin, Aleksei [2 ]
Moskvina, Mariya [2 ]
机构
[1] Ivanovo State Polytech Univ, Text Inst, 21 Sheremetev Av, Ivanovo, Russia
[2] St Petersburg State Univ Ind Technol & Design, Dept Clothes Design & Technol, 18 Bolshaya Morskaya St, St Petersburg, Russia
关键词
Historical costume; reconstruction; VR; men suit; CAD; 3D;
D O I
10.1515/aut-2018-0001
中图分类号
TB3 [工程材料学]; TS1 [纺织工业、染整工业];
学科分类号
0805 ; 080502 ; 0821 ;
摘要
Nowadays, the virtual technology is being widely applied in the area of clothing design and try-on. However, the possibilities of these technologies cover only the contemporary marketable clothes, while the insight in the aspect of historical costume is very limited. In this research, we developed the method that allows to reconstruct and do the virtual try-on of historical men's suit consisting from four different garments-trousers, shirts, vest, and coat. The method includes, on one hand, the analysis of pattern drafting systems, patterns construction, special means of bespoke tailoring that were popular in the history and, on the other hand, the way of its adapting and preparing to contemporary technologies of 2D and 3D design. The exploration was done with men's suit and the patterns from the nineteenth century. We studied how the tailors took all measurements, the content of size charts including divisional, direct measurements, and its combination. To parameterize the historical patterns of men's clothes, we created the schedule of special indexes. We developed the method how to identify the means of garment shaping by steam pressing, which are hiding in the patterns, and how to perform ones by darts. The preparation of historical patterns to virtual try-on was done by CAD. As example, the reconstruction of full-dress suite painted on the Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha' portrait (1840) was done, and high adequacy between the historical prototype and the virtual suit has been proved.
引用
收藏
页码:281 / 294
页数:14
相关论文
共 38 条
  • [21] Virtual Historic Costume across Cultures and Disciplines
    Martin, Kathi
    Ko, Hyeong -Seok
    [J]. 2009 15TH INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON VIRTUAL SYSTEMS AND MULTIMEDIA PROCEEDINGS (VSMM 2009), 2009, : 104 - +
  • [22] Matheson H. H., 1871, MATHESONS SCI PRACTI
  • [23] Muller M., 2014, HIST SCHNITTE GRUND
  • [24] Muller M., 2010, HAKA SCHNITTKONSTRUK
  • [25] Muller M., 2010, HIST SCHNITTE SCHNIT
  • [26] Muller M., 2011, SCHNITTKONSTRUKTIONE
  • [27] Queen J., 1809, TAYLORS INSTRUCTOR C
  • [28] Royal Collection Trust, 2017, W ROSS PRINC ALB 184
  • [29] Schweinhart W., 1851, YOUNG CROOKS GUIDE S
  • [30] Scott A., 1841, TREATISE CUTTING GAR