The modelling of nonlinear surface gravity waves under shallow-water conditions with account of dispersion is described in this study. On the basis of the analytic expressions obtained for the horizontal velocity of medium particles, the profile evolution of nonlinear surface gravity waves during its propagation under shallow-water conditions is described. The profiles of surface gravity waves during their propagation in the bay with account of dispersion are given.
机构:
Ecole Normale Super, Dept Math & Applicat, UMR 8553, F-75230 Paris 05, FranceEcole Normale Super, Dept Math & Applicat, UMR 8553, F-75230 Paris 05, France
机构:
Univ St Andrews, Sch Math & Stat, St Andrews KY16 9SS, Scotland
Univ Bath, Dept Math Sci, Bath BA2, EnglandUniv St Andrews, Sch Math & Stat, St Andrews KY16 9SS, Scotland
Shelton, Josh
Milewski, Paul
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Penn State Univ, Dept Math, State Coll, PA 16802 USAUniv St Andrews, Sch Math & Stat, St Andrews KY16 9SS, Scotland
Milewski, Paul
Trinh, Philippe H.
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Univ Bath, Dept Math Sci, Bath BA2, EnglandUniv St Andrews, Sch Math & Stat, St Andrews KY16 9SS, Scotland