Multicomponent analytical methodology to control phthalates, synthetic musks, fragrance allergens and preservatives in perfumes

A simple, fast, robust and reliable multicomponent analytical method applicable in control laboratories with a high throughput level has been developed to analyze commercial brands of perfumes. Contents of 52 cosmetic ingredients belonging to different chemical families can be determined in a single run. Instrumental linearity, precision of the method and recovery studies in real samples showed excellent results, so that quantification by external calibration can be effectively applied. Relevant limits of detection and quantification were obtained for all the targets considered, far below the legal requirements and amply adequate for its accurate analytical control. A survey of 70 commercial perfumes and colognes has been performed, in order to verify whether these products complied with the recent changes in European legislation: regarding the maxima allowed concentrations of the ingredients and/or ingredient labelling. All samples contained some of the target ingredients. Several samples do not comply with the regulations concerning the presence of phthalates. Musks data confirmed the trend about the replacement of nitromusks by polycyclic musks: as well as the noticeable introduction of macrocyclic musks in the perfumes composition. The prohibited musk moskene has been detected in one sample in an appreciable concentration. The average number of fragrance allergens is twelve per sample; their presence must be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds the 0.001%, but values higher than 1% have been found in some samples. Preservatives data show that parabens, although ubiquitous in other cosmetic products, are not widely used in perfumery. In contrast, the presence of BHT is indeed widespread. The degree of compliance with the European Regulation on the labelling has been evaluated in a subset of samples, and only about the 38% of the perfumes were properly labelled for the allergens tested. (C) 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.