New topical tranexamic acid derivative for the improvement of hyperpigmentation and inflammation in the sun-damaged skin

Background Skin-lightening products are used worldwide to treat persistent pigmentation disorders that impact our quality of life and self-confidence. However, consumers of cosmetic and over-the-counter skin lighteners struggle to find products that perform to their expectations. New, safe, and effective bioactives are needed to fill this gap. Objective To investigate the safety and skin-lightening performance of a new topical tranexamic acid derivative, that is, cetyl tranexamate mesylate. Methods The test material was a facial serum containing 2.0% (w/w) of the new bioactive. Safety was evaluated by a modified Human Repeat Insult Patch Test with 54 subjects of either sex. Performance was objectively assessed based on the improvement of melanin and erythema indexes through time, and also subjectively by photographs and self-perception questionnaires. Thirty-five female subjects applied the serum twice a day for 8 weeks. Results No questionable adverse reactions were observed. Melanin and erythema indexes improved significantly and continuously from the baseline to the end of the study (-16.9% and -34.3%, respectively). Photographs further support instrumental data. On average, after 2 weeks, the subjects already noticed an improvement in skin tone (79.3%), a reduction in dark spots (78.6%), and an improvement in facial redness (77.1%). Conclusion A topical serum containing cetyl tranexamate mesylate was well-tolerated and successfully improved the overall facial skin tone, as well as the appearance of dark spots and redness.