Measurement of Infragravity Edge Waves on the East Coast of Taiwan Using a Single Instrument

被引:1
作者
Chen, Guan-Yu [1 ,2 ]
Chien, Hsiao-Ching [1 ,2 ]
Tseng, Hsiang-Mao [3 ]
机构
[1] Natl Sun Yat Sen Univ, Inst Appl Marine Phys & Undersea Technol, Kaohsiung 80424, Taiwan
[2] Natl Sun Yat Sen Univ, Asia Pacific Ocean Res Ctr, Kaohsiung 80424, Taiwan
[3] Harbor & Marine Technol Ctr, Wuchi 435, Taiwan
关键词
Infragravity wave; edge wave; field measurement; Hilbert Huang Transform (HHT); harbor resonance; Hua-Lien Harbor; BEACHES;
D O I
10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-10-00089.1
中图分类号
X [环境科学、安全科学];
学科分类号
08 ; 0830 ;
摘要
Traditionally, an edge wave is measured along a long and straight coast with pressure-gauge arrays to acquire the frequency-wavenumber for dispersion relationships. Ideal measurement locations are limited, and the cost of purchasing and operating some 20 instruments emerges as a threshold requirement. In the present study, one instrument measuring both the bottom pressure and the flow velocity was used to retrieve edge-wave information on the east coast of Taiwan outside the Hua-Lien Harbor. Using the progressive linear-wave assumption for irrotational and inviscid shallow water provided the pressure-flow relationships for both the infragravity edge and leaky waves. The relationship for edge waves was helpful in identifying the edge-wave mode, whereas the relationship for the leaky waves eliminated the possibility of incorrectly interpreting a leaky wave as an edge wave. Applying this approach to field measurements on the east coast of Taiwan shows that a Stokes edge wave is a significant component in the band of period 70-120 seconds before the landfall of a typhoon coming from the southeast but still hundreds of kilometers from Hua-Lien Harbor. This result suggests that the approach being presented can be applied in the real ocean, and a unique method for taking into account edge waves may need to be considered for the resonance problem that occurs in Hua-Lien Harbor during passing storms.
引用
收藏
页码:114 / 122
页数:9
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