Emollients for cosmetic formulations: Towards relationships between physico-chemical properties and sensory perceptions

被引：28

作者：

Chao, Christina ^{[1
]}

Genot, Celina ^{[1
]}

Rodriguez, Corinne ^{[2
]}

Magniez, Harmonie ^{[2
]}

Lacourt, Sandrine ^{[3
]}

Fievez, Aurelie ^{[3
]}

Len, Christophe ^{[1
]}

Pezron, Isabelle ^{[1
]}

Luart, Denis ^{[4
]}

van Hecke, Elisabeth ^{[1
]}

机构：

[1] Sorbonne Univ, Univ Technol Compiegne, EA TIMR UTC 4297, ESCOM, Rue Docteur Schweitzer, F-60200 Compiegne, France

[2] Labosphere, R&D, 5 Rue Setubal, F-60000 Beauvais, France

[3] Oleon, R&D, Chemin Usine, F-60280 Venette, France

[4] ESCOM, EA TIMR UTC 4297, 1 Allee Reseau Jean Marie Buckmaster, F-60200 Compiegne, France

来源：

COLLOIDS AND SURFACES A-PHYSICOCHEMICAL AND ENGINEERING ASPECTS | 2018年 / 536卷

关键词：

Emolliency; Spreading; Esters; Hydrocarbons; Silicone;

D O I：

10.1016/j.colsurfa.2017.07.025

中图分类号：

O64 [物理化学（理论化学）、化学物理学];

学科分类号：

070304 ; 081704 ;

摘要：

Thirteen current commercial emollients from different chemical families (hydrocarbon, ester, ether, and silicone) were firstly characterized by eight physicochemical properties which were a-priori thought to be strongly related to sensory perception. Those include usual properties as well as more original ones such as volatility, estimated by the evaporated mass fraction during a fixed duration, as well as the polar and dispersive components of the surface tension. Principal Component Analysis and Hierarchical Agglomerative Clustering led to a partition of the emollients into groups that matched fairly well with the different chemical families. It also helped to highlight the main characteristics of each group. As expected, silicone had the lowest surface properties. Hydrocarbons showed the highest volatilities and the lowest viscosities. Esters mainly displayed the highest surface properties, and within this group, diesters showed higher polar components than monoesters. Sensory evaluation was performed at the same time by a professional panel. The sensory attribute "Spontaneous spreading" was found to be larger for silicone and hydrocarbons than for esters and ether. From our set of data, a suitable correlation was obtained between the sensory attribute "Spontaneous spreading" and the calculated spreading coefficient on Teflon which combines surface tension with the cosine of contact angle.

引用

页码：156 / 164

页数：9

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