Mechanisms of cytotoxicity by cosmetic ingredients in sea urchin eggs

The acute cytotoxicities of four cosmetic ingredients: a preservative, imidazolidinylurea (IU) and three mild surfactants, cocamido propyl hydroxy sultaine (CAS), magnesium laureth sulfate (Mg LES), and decyl glucoside (APG) were studied using sea urchin eggs. The cellular targets of these compounds were identified by studying the effects on calcium homeostasis, intracellular pH, sodium and potassium contents, protein and DNA synthesis, and protein phosphorylation. These compounds inhibited the first cleavage of sea urchin eggs in a dose-dependent fashion with half maximal doses (IC50) from 30 mu g/ml for Mg LES, 60 mu g/ml for IU, 83 mu g/ml for GAS, to above 400 mu g/ml for APG. The time at which a compound showed the greatest toxicity to the eel cycle was definable for APG (between 20 and 50 min postfertilization) and IU (from fertilization to 50 min later); the other compounds being toxic throughout division. Compounds exhibited toxicity to a wide range of cellular targets. TU, the least toxic, mainly operates through inhibition of protein and DNA syntheses. CAS and Mg LES produced nonspecific cytotoxicity related to alterations of membrane and endomembrane permeabilities resulting in ionic disequilibrium (Na+, K+, Ca2+) and inhibition of intracellular storage of Ca2+. The APG effect mainly involved intracellular pH and DNA synthesis, a hypothesis suggested by the narrow postfertilization period of maximal toxicity.