Effect of a shallow water obstruction on long wave runup and overland flow velocity

A study is presented to examine the one-horizontal dimension effect of a shallow shelf obstacle on nonlinear long wave runup. Due to the large horizontal-vertical aspect ratio of this problem, it is not well suited for experimental analysis, and therefore this study is purely numerical. Simulations are performed for various incident wave conditions, obstacle height and widths, and final beach slopes. Many of the setups involve breaking, either through approaching the obstacle as a large breaking bore, incipient breaking on top of the obstacle, or breaking during the beach uprush. The general conclusion of this study is that, for highly nonlinear waves (is an element of=wave height/shelf water depth >= 0.5), the obstacle will always act to reduce the runup and the maximum overland velocity. However, for very small obstacle lengths, particularly for extremely large waves, this reduction may be practically inconsequential. Interestingly, for weakly nonlinear waves (is an element of approximate to 0.1), due to front steepening over the obstacle, greater overland velocities can result from increasing obstacle length. Consistent with previous studies, it is found that the final beach slope is of primary importance for determining the runup.