Modulation instability of Stokes wave → freak wave

被引:140
作者
Dyachenko, AI [1 ]
Zakharov, VE
机构
[1] Russian Acad Sci, LD Landau Theoret Phys Inst, Moscow 117940, Russia
[2] Univ Arizona, Dept Math, Tucson, AZ 85721 USA
基金
美国国家科学基金会;
关键词
D O I
10.1134/1.1931010
中图分类号
O4 [物理学];
学科分类号
0702 ;
摘要
Formation of waves of large amplitude (freak waves, killer waves) at the surface of the ocean is studied numerically. We have observed that freak waves have the same ratio of the wave height to the wave length as limiting Stokes waves. When a freak wave reaches this limiting state, it breaks. The physical mechanism of freak wave formation is discussed. (C) 2005 Pleiades Publishing, Inc.
引用
收藏
页码:255 / 259
页数:5
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