Statistical model on the surface elevation of waves with breaking

被引：3
作者：
Yuan YeLi [1 ,2 ]
Hua Feng [1 ,2 ]
Zhang ShuWen [3 ]
Han Lei [1 ,2 ]
机构：
[1] SOA, Marine Sci & Numer Modeling Lab, Qingdao 266061, Peoples R China
[2] SOA, Inst Oceanog 1, Qingdao 266061, Peoples R China
[3] Guangdong Ocean Univ, S China Sea Environm Inst, Zhanjiang 524088, Peoples R China
来源：
SCIENCE IN CHINA SERIES D-EARTH SCIENCES | 2008年 / 51卷 / 05期
基金：
中国国家自然科学基金; 国家高技术研究发展计划(863计划);
关键词：
first integrals for energy and vortex variations in wind drift layer; kinetic and mathematic wave breaking criterions; triple composite function of the real sea waves; normal distribution of the basic waves;
D O I：
10.1007/s11430-008-0040-5
中图分类号：
P [天文学、地球科学];
学科分类号：
07 ;
摘要：
In the surface wind drift layer with constant momentum flux, two sets of the consistent surface elevation expressions with breaking and occurrence conditions for breaking are deduced from the first integrals of the energy and vortex variations and the kinetic and mathematic breaking criterions, then the expression of the surface elevation with wave breaking is established by using the Heaviside function. On the basis of the form of the sea surface elevation with wave breaking and the understanding of small slope sea waves, a triple composite function of real sea waves is presented including the functions for the breaking, weak-nonlinear and basic waves. The expression of the triple composite function and the normal distribution of basic waves are the expected theoretical model for surface elevation statistics.
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页码：759 / 768
页数：10
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