Steepness and spectrum of nonlinear deformed shallow water wave

被引：24

作者：

Zahibo, Narcisse ^{[1
]}

Didenkulova, Irina ^{[2
,3
]}

Kurkin, Andrey ^{[2
]}

Pelinovsky, Efim ^{[2
,3
]}

机构：

[1] Univ Antilles Guyane, Dept Phys, Guadeloupe, France

[2] State Tech Univ, Dept Appl Math, Nizhnii Novgorod, Russia

[3] Inst Appl Phys, Dept Nonlinear Geophys Proc, Nizhnii Novgorod, Russia

来源：

OCEAN ENGINEERING | 2008年 / 35卷 / 01期

基金：

俄罗斯基础研究基金会;

关键词：

nonlinear deformation; wave breaking; Fourier spectrum; steepness; shallow water theory;

D O I：

10.1016/j.oceaneng.2007.07.001

中图分类号：

U6 [水路运输]; P75 [海洋工程];

学科分类号：

0814 ; 081505 ; 0824 ; 082401 ;

摘要：

The process of the nonlinear deformation of a shallow water wave in a basin of a constant depth is studied. Characteristics of the first breaking of the wave are analyzed in detail. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave are calculated. It is shown that the spectral amplitudes can be expressed using the wave front steepness, which allows the practical estimations. (c) 2007 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

引用

页码：47 / 52

页数：6

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