Assessment of myofascial stiffness of flexor digitorum superficialis muscles in rock climbers

Purpose: Myofascial stiffness is the biomechanical property that can be considered as a modifiable risk factor injury of athletes. Moreover, the level of muscle stiffness can be crucial to assessment muscle adaptation to exercise. However, stiffness of flexor muscles in rock climbers has never been investigated. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the myofascial stiffness of the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) in the rock climbers. Methods: The group of rock climbers (n = 16) has been compared to the non-climbers group (n = 16), matched in terms of anthropometric measures and an average level of physical fitness. Moreover, the impact of the one-time rock climbing training on FDS stiffness was assessed in the rock climbers group. The measurement of myotonometric myofascial stiffness of FDS muscles was performed, when the elbow was flexed and fully extended. In both positions, the measurements were taken with the hand open and closed. Results: It has been shown that rock climber's FDS muscle stiffness before training was significantly higher (from 15 to 20%) compared to non-climbers group. Moreover, after climbing myofascial stiffness of FDS muscles increased significantly from 25 to 40%. Conclusions: Rock climbers have significantly higher stiffness of FDS muscles after rock climbing training. Moreover, the increased stiffness in the FDS differentiates rock climbers from the active and healthy control group. Results may indicate that decrease of muscle stiffness of FDS can be an important factor for the improvement of the climbing effectiveness and prevention of overload in the forearm flexor muscles and their recovery.