An analytic solution to the wave bottom boundary layer governing equation under arbitrary wave forcing

被引:15
作者
Foster, DL [1 ]
Guenther, RA
Holman, RA
机构
[1] Dalhousie Univ, Dept Oceanog, Halifax, NS, Canada
[2] Oregon State Univ, Dept Math, Corvallis, OR 97331 USA
[3] Oregon State Univ, Coll Ocean & Atmospher Sci, Corvallis, OR 97331 USA
关键词
wave bottom boundary layer; arbitrary wave forcing;
D O I
10.1016/S0029-8018(98)00016-X
中图分类号
U6 [水路运输]; P75 [海洋工程];
学科分类号
0814 ; 081505 ; 0824 ; 082401 ;
摘要
Existing models of the wave bottom boundary layer have focused on the vertical and temporal dynamics associated with monochromatic forcing. While these models have made significant advances, they do not address the more complicated dynamics of random wave forcing, commonly found in natural environments such as the surf zone. In the closed form solution presented here, the eddy viscosity is assumed to vary temporally with the bed shear velocity and linearly with depth, however, the solution technique is valid for any eddy viscosity which is separable in time and space. A transformation of the cross-shore velocity to a distorted spatial domain leads to time-independent boundary conditions, allowing for the derivation of an analytic expression for the temporal and vertical structure of the cross-shore velocity under an arbitrary wave field. The model is compared with two independent laboratory observations. Model calculations of the bed shear velocity are in good agreement with laboratory measurements made by Jonsson and Carlsen (1976, J. Hydraul. Res., 14, 45-60). A variety of monochromatic, skewed, and asymmetric wave forcing conditions, characteristic of those found in the surf zone, are used to evaluate the relative effects on the bed shear. Because the temporal variation of the eddy viscosity is assumed proportional to the bottom shear, a weakly nonlinear interaction is created, and a fraction of the input monochromatic wave energy is transferred to the odd harmonics. For a monochromatic input wave, the ratio of the third harmonic of velocity at the bed to the first is < 10%. However, for a skewed and asymmetric input wave, this ratio can be as large as 30% and is shown to increase with increasing root-mean-square input wave acceleration. The work done by the fluid on the bed is shown to be a maximum under purely skewed waves and is directed onshore. Under purely asymmetric waves, the work done is significantly smaller and directed offshore. (C) 1998 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.
引用
收藏
页码:595 / 623
页数:29
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