A note on wave propagation in the inner surf zone

In this paper we present a theoretical study on wave propagation in the inner surf zone. We analyze wave distortion and dissipation processes from the hyperbolic theory for shock wave applied to Saint-Venant equations. From this theoretical approach we obtain an analytical model for broken waves propagation on a gently sloping bottom. We show that there is a very good agreement between this model and wave flume experiments performed by Stive (1984). (C) 2001 Academie des sciences/Editions scientifiques et medicales Elsevier SAS.