"Hummus is best when it is fresh and made by Arabs": The gourmetization of hummus in Israel and the return of the repressed Arab

被引：43

作者：

Hirsch, Dafna ^{[1
]}

机构：

[1] Open Univ, Dept Sociol Polit Sci & Commun, IL-43107 Raanana, Israel

来源：

AMERICAN ETHNOLOGIST | 2011年 / 38卷 / 04期

关键词：

food; national food; hummus; Israel; Arab-Jewish relations; cultural transfer; Middle East; FOOD; CULTURE;

D O I：

10.1111/j.1548-1425.2011.01326.x

中图分类号：

Q98 [人类学];

学科分类号：

030303 ;

摘要：

In this article, I examine the cultural biography of hummus in Israel from the Mandate period to the present, focusing on the changing place of Arabness in the signification of the dish. Contrary to accounts that regard food consumption as metonymic of political relations, I argue that, because food items move in several fields, both their consumption and signification are overdetermined processes. Rather than taking hummus to be the essential food of the Other, I show that the Arab identity of hummus functions as a resource, employed by social actors embedded in various political, social, and economic projects.

引用

页码：617 / 630

页数：14