How to ride a wave: Mechanics of surfing

被引：0

作者：

Sugimoto, T ^{[1
]}

机构：

[1] Kanagawa Univ, Dept Ind Engn & Management, Yokohama, Kanagawa 2218686, Japan

来源：

SIAM REVIEW | 1998年 / 40卷 / 02期

关键词：

mechanics of a particle; fluid mechanics; calculus;

D O I：

10.1137/S0036144596316212

中图分类号：

O29 [应用数学];

学科分类号：

070104 ;

摘要：

This note presents a concise mathematical model that accounts for the physics of surfing. The equilibrium of surfing and its stability is discussed. Analysis reveals the fact that surfing is possible only on a lower part of the front side of the concave surface of a wave. The angle of the wave slope suited for surfing is confined in (-35 degrees,0 degrees).

引用

页码：341 / 343

页数：3