Tide and wave driven flow across the rim reef of the atoll of Raroia (Tuamotu, French Polynesia)

The currents flowing across the rim of the atoll of Raroia were investigated with a 1 year-long dataset of wave, water level and currents. Offshore waves break on the edge of the reef outside the atoll's rim and drive current into the lagoon, through the shallow hoa that cut across the rim. The additional water volume generated by this wave driven flow induces an elevation of water level throughout the atoll's lagoon and is evacuated back into the open ocean through a deep reef pass. The water level inside the atoll is also driven by astronomical tides, which enter the lagoon thought the reef pass, after undergoing a similar to 50% decrease in amplitude and a similar to 4 hour lag. Using a simple parametric model with three calibrated coefficients, we show that currents across the atoll's rim can be estimated as a function of the offshore wave conditions and the water level difference between the ocean and the lagoon.