Microemulsification of triglyceride sebum and the role of interfacial structure on bicontinuous phase behavior

A unique triblock surfactant is reported that allows for the efficient microemulsification of triglycerides. Unlike the results of all previous efforts, these triglyceride microemulsions can be formed without the use of cosurfactants or dilution with co-oils and follow the classical patterns of surfactant phase behavior exhibited by mixtures of water, alkane oils, and nonionic oligoethylene glycol surfactants, i.e., progression from oil/water emulsions to one-phase microemulsions to water/oil emulsions with increasing temperature. Lamellar phases that usually dominate the aqueous phase behavior of surfactant/triglyceride mixtures are suppressed, allowing for the formation of single-phase microemulsions containing equal amounts of triglyceride and water. These isotropic and low-viscous fluids are particularly useful for cleansing and delivery of functional ingredients in skin care products. The effects of mixing a variety of typical skin care ingredients and components of sebum (skin oil) were also explored. Fatty acids significantly reduce the average microemulsion temperature, while other ingredients and oils, which do not partition at the oil/ water interface, have less impact on the phase behavior. In all cases, one-phase microemulsions containing equal amounts of oil and water can be formed even at high additive concentrations. Indeed, partial replacement of triglyceride with any of the additives examined consistently reduced the amount of surfactant necessary to form single-phase microemulsions. However, the greatest boost in surfactant efficiency was found with the addition of medium molecular weight amphiphilic block copolymers.