Influence of the level of ceramides on the permeability of stratum corneum lipid liposomes caused by a C12-betaine/sodium dodecyl sulfate mixture

The sublytic interactions of a mixture of N-dodecyl-N,N-dimethylbetaine dodecyl betaine (C-12-Bet)/sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) (mole fraction of the zwitterionic surfactant = 0.6) with stratum corneum (SC) lipid liposomes varying the proportion of ceramides type III (Cer) were investigated. The surfactant, lipid molar ratios (Re) and the bilayer aqueous phase partition coefficients (K) were determined by monitoring the changes in the fluorescence intensity of liposomes due to the 5(6) carboxyfluorescein (CF) released from the interior of vesicles. The fact that the free surfactant mixture concentration was always lower than its critical micelle concentration indicates that permeability changes were ruled by the action of surfactant monomers in all cases. Higher and lower Cer proportions than that of the SC lipids led to a fall and to a rise in the activity of the surfactant mixture on these bilayer structures. However, the surfactant partitioning into liposomes (or affinity with these bilayer structures) increased as the proportion of Cer increased up to the highest value was achieved for a Cer proportion similar to that in the SC lipids (about 40-45%). Thus. at low Cer proportions the ability of the surfactant mixture to alter the permeability of these bilayer structures was higher than that for liposomes approximating the SC lipid composition despite their reduced partitioning into liposomes. These findings are in agreement with the recently reported dependencies of the level of ceramides in skin lipids and function barrier abnormalities and could explain in part these dependencies. (C) 1999 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.