On the kurtosis of deep-water gravity waves

被引:64
|
作者
Fedele, Francesco [1 ,2 ]
机构
[1] Georgia Inst Technol, Sch Civil & Environm Engn, Atlanta, GA 30322 USA
[2] Georgia Inst Technol, Sch Elect & Comp Engn, Atlanta, GA 30322 USA
关键词
surface gravity waves; wave-turbulence interactions; waves/free-surface flows; HAMILTONIAN THEORY; ZAKHAROV EQUATION; FREAK WAVES; EVOLUTION; SURFACE; SIMULATIONS;
D O I
10.1017/jfm.2015.538
中图分类号
O3 [力学];
学科分类号
08 ; 0801 ;
摘要
In this paper, we revisit Janssen's (J. Phys. Oceanogr., vol. 33 (4), 2003, pp. 863-884) formulation for the dynamic excess kurtosis of weakly nonlinear gravity waves in deep water. For narrowband directional spectra, the formulation is given by a sixfold integral that depends upon the Benjamin Feir index and the parameter R = sigma(2)(theta)/2v(2), a measure of short-crestedness for the dominant waves, with v and sigma(theta) denoting spectral bandwidth and angular spreading Our refinement leads to a new analytical solution for the dynamic kurtosis of narrowband directional waves described with a Gaussian-type spectrum. For multidirectional or short-crested seas initially homogeneous and Gaussian, in a focusing (defocusing) regime dynamic kurtosis grows initially, attaining a positive maximum (negative minimum) at the intrinsic time scale tau(c) = v(2) omega(0)t(c) = 1/root 3R, or t(c)/T-0 approximate to 0.13/v sigma(theta), where omega(0) = 2 pi/T-0 denotes the dominant angular frequency. Eventually the dynamic excess kurtosis tends monotonically to zero as the wave field reaches a quasi-equilibrium state characterized by nonlinearities mainly due to bound harmonics. Quasi-resonant interactions are dominant only in unidirectional or long-crested seas where the longer-time dynamic kurtosis can be larger than that induced by bound harmonics, especially as the Benjamin-Feir index increases. Finally, we discuss the implication of these results for the prediction of rogue waves.
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页码:25 / 36
页数:12
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