Nonlinear shallow ocean-wave soliton interactions on flat beaches

被引:115
作者
Ablowitz, Mark J. [1 ]
Baldwin, Douglas E. [1 ]
机构
[1] Univ Colorado, Dept Appl Math, Boulder, CO 80309 USA
来源
PHYSICAL REVIEW E | 2012年 / 86卷 / 03期
基金
美国国家科学基金会;
关键词
Beaches - Nonlinear equations - Solitons - Oceanography;
D O I
10.1103/PhysRevE.86.036305
中图分类号
O35 [流体力学]; O53 [等离子体物理学];
学科分类号
070204 ; 080103 ; 080704 ;
摘要
Ocean waves are complex and often turbulent. While most ocean-wave interactions are essentially linear, sometimes two or more waves interact in a nonlinear way. For example, two or more waves can interact and yield waves that are much taller than the sum of the original wave heights. Most of these shallow-water nonlinear interactions look like an X or a Y or two connected Ys; at other times, several lines appear on each side of the interaction region. It was thought that such nonlinear interactions are rare events: they are not. Here we report that such nonlinear interactions occur every day, close to low tide, on two flat beaches that are about 2000 km apart. These interactions are closely related to the analytic, soliton solutions of a widely studied multidimensional nonlinear wave equation. On a much larger scale, tsunami waves can merge in similar ways.
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页数:5
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