ON HOKUSAI'S GREAT WAVE OFF KANAGAWA: LOCALIZATION, LINEARITY AND A ROGUE WAVE IN SUB-ANTARCTIC WATERS

被引:16
|
作者
Dudley, J. M. [1 ]
Sarano, V. [2 ]
Dias, F. [3 ]
机构
[1] Univ Franche Comte, CNRS, Inst FEMTO ST, UMR 6174, F-25000 Besancon, France
[2] Assoc Longitude 181 Nat, F-26000 Valence, France
[3] Univ Coll Dublin, Sch Math Sci, Dublin 4, Ireland
来源
NOTES AND RECORDS OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY | 2013年 / 67卷 / 02期
关键词
Great wave of Kanagawa; rogue waves; wave breaking; Hokusai;
D O I
10.1098/rsnr.2012.0066
中图分类号
N09 [自然科学史]; B [哲学、宗教];
学科分类号
01 ; 0101 ; 010108 ; 060207 ; 060305 ; 0712 ;
摘要
The Hokusai woodcut entitled The great wave off Kanagawa has been interpreted as an unusually large storm wave, likely to be classed as a rogue wave, and possibly generated from nonlinear wave dynamics (J. H. E. Cartwright and H. Nakamura, Notes Rec. R. Soc. 63, 119-135 (2009)). In this paper, we present a complementary discussion of this hypothesis, discussing in particular how linear and nonlinear mechanisms can both contribute to the emergence of rogue wave events. By making reference to the Great wave's simultaneous transverse and longitudinal localization, we show that the purely linear mechanism of directional focusing also predicts characteristics consistent with those of the Great wave. In addition, we discuss the properties of a particular rogue wave photographed on the open ocean in sub-Antarctic waters, which shows two-dimensional localization and breaking dynamics remarkably similar to Hokusai's depiction in the woodcut.
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收藏
页码:159 / 164
页数:6
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