WAVE TRANSFORMATION AND BREAKING ON GENTLE SLOPE

The limit wave height, that is, breaking wave height, is usually adopted as the design wave height for the offshore structures that most build on very gentle slopes, hence the breaking height research is very important to engineering application. Based on other's research, especially the most representative methods of wave breaking indices are proposed by Goda, regular wave breaking indices are proposed and the changes of wave height after wave transformation on the gentle slope through the physical wave model test on 1/30,1/200,1/500, and based on the test data and Goda's methods, a modified Goda's formulas is yielded. And based on the model test results, mathematic model on wave transformation in shallow water can be established, and it can be used in wave transformation after wave breaking in shallow water. And the results are applied in Fangchenggang harbor and waterway construction.