Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone

被引:1
|
作者
Bonneton, Philippe [1 ]
机构
[1] Univ Bordeaux, CNRS, UMR 5805, EPOC, Allee Geoffroy St Hilaire, F-33615 Pessac, France
关键词
shallow water flows; surface gravity waves; EQUILIBRIUM RANGE; BREAKING WAVES; GRAVITY; TRANSFORMATION; SATURATION; DYNAMICS; LAYER; LIDAR;
D O I
10.1017/jfm.2023.878
中图分类号
O3 [力学];
学科分类号
08 ; 0801 ;
摘要
The spectral behaviour of random sawtooth waves propagating in the inner surf zone is investigated in this study. We show that the elevation energy spectrum exhibits a universal shape with an omega(-2) tendency in the inertial subrange and an exponential decay in the diffusive subrange (omega being the angular frequency). A theoretical spectrum is derived based on the similarities between sawtooth waves in the inner surf zone and Burgers wave solutions. Very good agreement is shown between this theoretical spectrum and laboratory experiments covering a large range of incident random wave conditions. Additionally, an equation describing the universal shape of the dissipation spectrum is derived. It highlights that the dissipation spectrum is nearly constant in the inertial subrange, consistent with prior laboratory observations. The findings presented in this study can be useful to improve broken wave dissipation parametrizations in stochastic spectral wave models.
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页数:25
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