Near shore waves,long-shore currents and sediment transport along micro-tidal beaches,central west coast of India

Coastlines are undergoing constant geomorphologic changes with respect to the incident wave climate.Based on waves measured at 9 m water depth,simulation of near shore wave transformation is done using REFDIF-1numerical model and the near shore breaker parameters are estimated at two micro-tidal beaches along central west coast of India.Model results are validated with measured values.From the breaker parameters,long-shore current and long-shore sediment transport rates(LSTR) are computed by using semi-empirical equations.Estimated long-shore current and LSTR are showing dramatic variations with respect to seasons.Predominant direction of LSTR is observed towards north since the approach waves are from south-west direction during pre-monsoon and post monsoon.During monsoon season,waves are from west south-west and resulted in southerly transport.The estimated annual net and gross LSTR by Cambridge Environmental Research Consultants(CERC) at two locations are in the same order whereas LSTR estimated by Walton & Bruno and Kamphuis equations are showing different estimations because of difference in surf-zone width and foreshore slope between the two locations.For micro-tidal beaches with length less than 6 km,Kamphuis equation is giving agreeable estimation of LSTR.Sensitivity analysis of LSTR estimate shows that coastal inclination is the prominent factor in determining LSTR than incident wave angle.