Nonlinear Lagrangian Breaker Characteristics for Waves Propagating Normally Toward A Mild Slope

被引：0

作者：

曾文哲 ^{[1
]}

陈阳益 ^{[1
]}

陈冠宇 ^{[2
]}

机构：

[1] Dept.of Marine Environment and Engineering,National Sun Yat-Sen Univ., Kaohsiung804,Taiwan, China

[2] Institute of Physical Oceanography,National Sun Yat-Sen Univ., Kaohsiung804,Taiwan, China

来源：

China Ocean Engineering | 2005年 / 04期

关键词：

Eulerian system; Lagrangian system; breaking criteria; perturbation method;

D O I：

暂无

中图分类号：

P731.22 [波浪];

学科分类号：

0707 ;

摘要：

Because of shoaling, refraction, friction, and other effects, a surface-wave propagating on a gently sloping bottom of slope will eventually break. In this paper, by nonlinearizing the problem and using a perturbation method, an analytical solution for the velocity potential is derived to the second order for the bottom slope α and the wave steepness ε in a Eulerian system. Then, the wave profile and the breaking wave characteristics are found by transforming the flow field into a Lagrangian system. By use of the kinematic stability parameter (K.S.P), new theoretical breaker characteristics are derived. Thus, the linear theories of other scholars are extended to breaking waves. A Comparison of the present analytical solution with experimental studies of other scholars shows reasonable agreement except that the breaking depth is underestimated.

引用

页码：587 / 600

页数：14