Investigation of Dyeing Characteristics of Merino Wool Fiber Dyed with Sustainable Natural Dye Extracted from Aesculus hippocastanum

Recently there has been growing interest in dyeing biomaterials using natural sustainable plant extracts classified as eco-friendly. The microwave-assisted method provides fast heating and energy efficiency, more homogenous heat distribution in dyeing baths, less use of chemicals, and less heat loss, resulting in this method being greener-more sustainable and ecological. Artificial neural networks (ANNs) are used to predict the dyeing properties of fibers, which are often complex and dependent on multiple variables. This saves time and reduces costs compared to trial-and-error methods. This study presents the green dyeing of merino wool fiber with natural dye extracted from Aesculus hippocastanum (horse chestnut) shells using the microwave-assisted method. Before dyeing, the merino wool fiber underwent a pre-mordanted process with aluminum potassium sulfate with different concentrations using the microwave-assisted method. Spectrophotometric analysis of the light, washing, and rubbing fastness of the dyed merino wool fibers was performed. The color strength, light, washing, and rubbing fastness of the dyed merino wool fiber were developed using the pre-mordanting process. After the pre-mordanting process, the light fastness of the samples improved from 1-2 to 3, the color change increased from 2 to 3-4, and the rubbing fastness developed from 2-3 to 4 according to mordant concentration, mordanting time, and dyeing time quantities. The spectrophotometric analysis results indicate that color coordinates vary based on mordant concentration, mordanting, and dyeing duration. Furthermore, the results proved that microwave energy significantly shortened the mordanting and dyeing duration, resulting in an eco-friendly dyeing process. In this investigation, a feed-forward neural network (FFNN) model with sigmoid hidden neurons and a linear output neuron was used to predict the color strength dyeing property of merino wool fiber. Experimental results showed that the proposed model achieved a regression value of 0.9 for the color strength dyeing property. As demonstrated, the proposed FFNN model is effective and can be utilized to forecast the color strength dyeing properties of merino wool fiber.