Numerical model of fully-nonlinear wave refraction and diffraction

Nonlinear mild-slope equations are a set of equations which were derived to analyze fully-nonlinear and fully-dispersive wave transformation. In the present study, it is shown that refraction-diffraction equations including the mild-slope equation, nonlinear shallow water equations and Boussinesq equations are derived as special cases of the nonlinear mild-slope equations. Then, a numerical model is developed for fully-nonlinear wave refraction and diffraction on the basis of the nonlinear mild-slope equations. The model is verified through comparison of numerical results with theoretical and experimental results. Finally, effect of nonlinearity on wave diffraction through a breakwater gap is discussed.