[1] UCSD, Scripps Inst Oceanog, La Jolla, CA 92093 USA
[2] Princeton Univ, Program Appl & Computat Math, Princeton, NJ 08544 USA
[3] Univ Oxford, Dept Engn Sci, Parks Rd, Oxford OX1 3PJ, England
[4] Kelly Slater Wave Co, 3300 La Cienega Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90016 USA
[5] Univ Southern Calif, Dept Aerosp & Mech Engn, Los Angeles, CA 90089 USA