Predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental characterizations: A review

被引:1
作者
Akanny, Elie [1 ]
Kohlmann, Christina [1 ]
机构
[1] BASF Personal Care & Nutr GmbH, Henkelstr 67, D-40589 Dusseldorf, Germany
关键词
emulsions; formulation/stability; rheology; sensory evaluation; statistics; tactile friction; COSMETIC EMULSIONS; HUMAN SKIN; FRICTION; FORMULATIONS; PRODUCTS; TRIBOLOGY; RHEOLOGY; BEHAVIOR; CREAM; EQUIVALENTS;
D O I
10.1111/ics.13004
中图分类号
O69 [应用化学];
学科分类号
081704 ;
摘要
Emulsions in the form of creams, lotions, gels or foams are the most widely used personal care formulations to improve the condition and feel of the skin. Achieving an optimal balance between their performance, effectiveness and sensory profile is essential, with the sensory profile being a key factor in consumer satisfaction and the success of these products in the market. Well-established methods using highly trained and semi-trained panels (e.g. Spectrum descriptive analysis, Flash Profile method, Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method and 'Check-all-that-apply') are available and commonly used for the sensory assessment of personal care products. Nevertheless, a common drawback among all these methods is their inherent cost, both in terms of financial resources and time requirements. In recent years, research studies have emerged to address this limitation by investigating potential correlations between tactile sensory attributes and instrumental data associated with the physical characteristics of topical formulations. In other words, significant efforts have been invested in the development of robust instrumental methods specifically designed to accurately predict the sensory description that a panel of assessors could establish. These methods are not only faster, cheaper and more objective compared to traditional sensory testing, but they can also be applied to formulations that have not undergone extensive safety and toxicological testing. This review summarizes the most relevant findings, trends and current challenges in predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental parameters. Les & eacute;mulsions sous forme de cr & egrave;mes, lotions, gels ou mousses sont les formulations de soins personnels les plus largement utilis & eacute;es pour am & eacute;liorer l'& eacute;tat et la sensation de la peau. Il est essentiel de parvenir & agrave; un & eacute;quilibre parfait entre leur performance, leur efficacit & eacute; et leur profil sensoriel, ce dernier & eacute;tant un facteur cl & eacute; de la satisfaction des consommateurs et du succ & egrave;s de ces produits sur le march & eacute;. Des m & eacute;thodes bien & eacute;tablies utilisant des panels hautement qualifi & eacute;s et semi-qualifi & eacute;s sont disponibles et couramment utilis & eacute;es pour l'& eacute;valuation sensorielle des produits de soins personnels. N & eacute;anmoins, un inconv & eacute;nient commun & agrave; toutes ces m & eacute;thodes est leur co & ucirc;t inh & eacute;rent, tant en termes de ressources financi & egrave;res que de temps. Ces derni & egrave;res ann & eacute;es, nous avons assist & eacute; & agrave; l'& eacute;mergence d'& eacute;tudes de recherche tentant de rem & eacute;dier & agrave; ces limites en & eacute;tudiant les corr & eacute;lations potentielles entre les descripteurs sensoriels tactiles et les donn & eacute;es instrumentales associ & eacute;es aux caract & eacute;ristiques physiques des formulations topiques. En d'autres termes, des efforts importants ont & eacute;t & eacute; d & eacute;ploy & eacute;s dans le d & eacute;veloppement de m & eacute;thodes instrumentales robustes sp & eacute;cifiquement con & ccedil;ues pour pr & eacute;dire avec pr & eacute;cision la description sensorielle qu'un panel d'& eacute;valuateurs pourrait & eacute;tablir. Ces m & eacute;thodes sont non seulement plus rapides, moins co & ucirc;teuses et plus objectives par rapport aux tests sensoriels traditionnels, mais elles peuvent & eacute;galement & ecirc;tre appliqu & eacute;es & agrave; des formulations qui n'ont pas & eacute;t & eacute; enti & egrave;rement test & eacute;es en termes de s & eacute;curit & eacute; et de profils toxicologiques. La pr & eacute;sente revue r & eacute;sume les r & eacute;sultats, tendances et d & eacute;fis actuels les plus pertinents dans la pr & eacute;diction des attributs sensoriels tactiles des & eacute;mulsions de soins personnels & agrave; partir de param & egrave;tres instrumentaux. Sensorial experience is a key driver of consumer satisfaction. However, the conventional sensorial profiling methods using evaluation panels share a common limitation, namely their cost in terms of money and time. Instrumental characterization as a tool for predicting tactile sensory attributes is an interesting cost-effective approach that could speed up development processes.image
引用
收藏
页码:1035 / 1063
页数:29
相关论文
共 131 条
  • [1] Multiple factor analysis: principal component analysis for multitable and multiblock data sets
    Abdi, Herve
    Williams, Lynne J.
    Valentin, Domininique
    [J]. WILEY INTERDISCIPLINARY REVIEWS-COMPUTATIONAL STATISTICS, 2013, 5 (02) : 149 - 179
  • [2] Quantitative Sensory Interpretation of Rheological Parameters of a Cream Formulation
    Adejokun, Deborah Adefunke
    Dodou, Kalliopi
    [J]. COSMETICS, 2020, 7 (01)
  • [3] Potential role of natural bioactive peptides for development of cosmeceutical skin products
    Aguilar-Toala, J. E.
    Hernandez-Mendoza, A.
    Gonzalez-Cordova, A. F.
    Vallejo-Cordoba, B.
    Liceaga, A. M.
    [J]. PEPTIDES, 2019, 122
  • [4] Rheological predictions of sensory attributes of lotions
    Ahuja, Amit
    Lu, Joey
    Potanin, Andrei
    [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTURE STUDIES, 2019, 50 (04) : 295 - 305
  • [5] Surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy using uncoated gold nanoparticles for bacteria discrimination
    Akanny, Elie
    Bonhomme, Anne
    Commun, Carine
    Doleans-Jordheim, Anne
    Farre, Carole
    Bessueille, Francois
    Bourgeois, Sandrine
    Bordes, Claire
    [J]. JOURNAL OF RAMAN SPECTROSCOPY, 2020, 51 (04) : 619 - 629
  • [6] Relationship between sensorial and physical characteristics of topical creams: A comparative study on effects of excipients
    Ali, A.
    Skedung, L.
    Burleigh, S.
    Lavant, E.
    Ringstad, L.
    Anderson, C. D.
    Wahlgren, M.
    Engblom, J.
    [J]. INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF PHARMACEUTICS, 2022, 613
  • [7] [Anonymous], 2018, BMJ, V362, pk4131, DOI 10.1136/bmj.k4131
  • [8] [Anonymous], 2017, 8589 ISO
  • [9] [Anonymous], 2016, Sensory AnalysisMethodologyGeneral Guidance for Establishing a Sensory Profile. Technical Report
  • [10] Should Pearson's correlation coefficient be avoided?
    Armstrong, Richard A.
    [J]. OPHTHALMIC AND PHYSIOLOGICAL OPTICS, 2019, 39 (05) : 316 - 327