Experimental study on regular wave breakage and nonlinear characteristics on the terrain of steep coral islands and reefs

被引:0
作者
Li, Wei [1 ]
Li, Tingqiu [1 ]
Yu, Min [1 ]
Fang, Xuyi [1 ]
Liu, Cong [2 ]
Zhou, Wenjun [2 ]
机构
[1] Wuhan Univ Technol, Sch Naval Architecture Ocean & Energy Power Engn, Wuhan 430063, Peoples R China
[2] Marine Design & Res Inst China, Shanghai, Peoples R China
基金
中国国家自然科学基金;
关键词
Experiment; Regular wave; Nonlinear features; BREAKING;
D O I
10.1007/s11069-024-06800-0
中图分类号
P [天文学、地球科学];
学科分类号
07 ;
摘要
The breaking and nonlinearity characteristics of waves on steep coral reef terrain were investigated through wave tank experiments. This study analyzed the variations in nonlinear characteristic parameters (skewness, asymmetry, kurtosis, and Ursell number) of regular waves on steep slope terrain. A steep slope with a slope ratio of 1:3 was employed to simulate the topography of steep coral reefs. Various test conditions using regular waves were examined to observe the wave breakup process on island and reef landscapes. Additionally, a empirical formula that establishes the relationship between skewness, asymmetry, and Ursell number for steep slope terrain was derived. Furthermore, a two-dimensional non-reflecting numerical wave tank based on the smooth particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method was established. This numerical model simulates the propagation and deformation process of waves on steep slope terrain and compares the results with those from physical model tests. The findings indicated that the experiments accurately captured the wave-breaking process. It was observed that the amplitudes of the four nonlinear characteristic parameters all peaked in the breaking section. The water depth significantly influenced skewness and Ursell number while minimally affecting asymmetry. A smaller water depth resulted in more pronounced changes in the parameter amplitudes in the breaking section. Remarkably, the SPH-based numerical simulation agreed well with the physical model test results, thus validating the effectiveness of the proposed methodology.
引用
收藏
页码:321 / 354
页数:34
相关论文
共 17 条
  • [1] [Anonymous], 2021, OCEAN RES, V112
  • [2] Wave Breaking in Directional Fields
    Babanin, A. V.
    Waseda, T.
    Kinoshita, T.
    Toffoli, A.
    [J]. JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY, 2011, 41 (01) : 145 - 156
  • [3] Characteristics and profile asymmetry properties of waves breaking over an impermeable submerged reef
    Chella, Mayilvahanan Alagan
    Bihs, Hans
    Myrhaug, Dag
    [J]. COASTAL ENGINEERING, 2015, 100 : 26 - 36
  • [4] Breaking characteristics and geometric properties of spilling breakers over slopes
    Chella, Mayilvahanan Alagan
    Bihs, Hans
    Myrhaug, Dag
    Muskulus, Michael
    [J]. COASTAL ENGINEERING, 2015, 95 : 4 - 19
  • [5] Chen H., 2016, STUDY PARAMETERIZATI
  • [6] Evolution of irregular wave shape over a fringing reef flat
    Chen, Hongzhou
    Jiang, Dahuang
    Tang, Xiaocheng
    Mao, Hongfei
    [J]. OCEAN ENGINEERING, 2019, 192
  • [7] Wave-wave interactions on a sloping bottom
    Chen, Yang-Yih
    Yang, Bin-Da
    [J]. COASTAL ENGINEERING, 2015, 95 : 84 - 93
  • [8] Deng B., 2022, MARINE SCI RES, V3, P33
  • [9] Erli LIU, 2004, ENERGY LOSS WAVE BRE
  • [10] Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, end runup. I: 1D
    Kennedy, AB
    Chen, Q
    Kirby, JT
    Dalrymple, RA
    [J]. JOURNAL OF WATERWAY PORT COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING, 2000, 126 (01) : 39 - 47