Surface Modification of Silk Fabric by Polysaccharide Derivatives towards High-Quality Printing Performance Using Bio-Based Gardenia Blue Ink

Ink-jet-printed silk, a premium textile material, was achieved by utilizing a bio-based gardenia blue dye. However, the sharpness of the printing pattern is difficult to control due to the limited water-retention capacity of silk. To address this issue, three polysaccharide derivatives, namely, sodium alginate (SA), low-viscosity hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (HPMC-I), and high-viscosity hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (HPMC-II), were employed as thickeners to modify the silk by the dipping-padding method. Firstly, the preparation of the gardenia blue ink and the rheology assessment of the thickener solution were conducted. Furthermore, the impacts of different thickeners on the micro-morphology, element composition, and hydrophilicity of the silk, along with the wetting behavior of the ink on the silk, were analyzed comparatively in order to identify an appropriate thickener for preserving pattern outlines. Lastly, the color features, color fastness, and wearing characteristics of the printed silk were discussed to evaluate the overall printing quality. Research results showed that the optimized ink formulation, comprising 12% gardenia blue, 21% alcohols, and 5.5% surfactant, met the requirements for ink-jet printing (with a viscosity of 4.48 mPa<middle dot>s, a surface tension of 34.12 mN/m, and a particle size of 153 nm). The HPMC-II solution exhibited prominent shear-thinning behavior, high elasticity, and thixotropy, facilitating the achievement of an even modification effect. The treatment of the silk with HPMC-II resulted in the most notable decrease in hydrophilicity. This can be attributed to the presence of filled gaps and a dense film on the fibers' surface after the HPMC-II treatment, as observed by scanning electron microscopy. Additionally, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy analysis confirmed that the HPMC-II treatment introduced the highest content of hydrophobic groups on the fiber surface. The reduced hydrophilicity inhibited the excessive diffusion and penetration of gardenia blue ink, contributing to a distinct printing image and enhanced apparent color depth. Moreover, the printed silk demonstrated qualified color fastness to rubbing and soaping (exceeding grade four), a soft handle feeling, an ignorable strength loss (below 5%), and a favorable air/moisture penetrability. In general, the surface modification with the HPMC-II treatment has been proven as an effective strategy for upgrading the image quality of bio-based dye-printed silk.