MOTION OF WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER - INTERACTION BETWEEN WAVES AND SAND BOTTOMS

被引:372
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BAGNOLD, RA
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10.1098/rspa.1946.0062
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O [数理科学和化学]; P [天文学、地球科学]; Q [生物科学]; N [自然科学总论];
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07 ; 0710 ; 09 ;
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