WAVE OVERTOPPING ON VERTICAL BOUNDARY AND WATER-SURFACE DISPLACEMENT

A perturbation method representing a nonlinear, gravity wave is applied to the vertical displacement of the water surface of a standing wave for estimating wave overtopping. The presented method predicts the surface displacement when the crest of the breakwater is lowered below the maximum water-surface elevation while wave overtopping occurs. A theoretical investigation is conducted to study the behavior of a wave overtopping a vertical barrier. A method based on the wave energy is used to formulate the discharge-water quantity due to wave overtopping, and the total amount of wave overtopping is calculated by integrating the water surface elevation at the barrier. Experiments were performed in a two-dimensional wave channel, where a vertical barrier model was placed to verify the predictions. The surface displacement of standing waves was measured at the barrier while the flow over the barrier was collected in a tank. The surface displacement, calculated by the finite-amplitude approximation is in agreement with test data, and the wave-overtopping model of this research agrees with measurements.